In April my wife and I spent eight days on our first visit to Costa Rica. April is a transitory month in Central America: the end of the dry season and start of the rainy season, so you can get lots of sun or lots of cloudy days with sporadic rain. We had some sunny days, some cloudy overcast days and some localized downpours. The locals informed me that it really gets wet in May and continues through October, although certain parts of the country are typically dry even in the wet season. Our trip started in San Jose, where we stayed at the Costa Rica Marriott for the first night, before setting off on our first adventure: river rafting on the Picuare River, followed by two nights at the Tortuguero Lodge in the Tortuguero National Park (one of the last remaining large areas of tropical rainforest in Central America) located on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. The rafting was pretty good, not many class III and no class IV rapids, as advertized, but it was the end of the dry season. The Tortuguero Lodge is accessible only by plane (40 minutes from San Jose) or by motor boat, 1 1/2 hours from some point down river. A very nice lodge with very good food, a nice pool and a mini- jungle walk in the back of it where birds, frogs and butterflies abound. Highly recommend it if your budget allows.
On day 4 we flew back to San Jose and rented a car. I would not recommend renting a car in Costa Rica – the main road through San Jose is the Pan American Highway, but it is very congested and typically only two lanes. I was warned about the bad roads, traffic and general difficulty of driving in Costa Rica, but I have a somewhat adventuresome spirit that was sorely tested by this place. Additionally, if you don’t have liability insurance from your credit card, the cost of renting can be very high (GPS is a must). We were to drive to La Fortuna, all of 100 or so miles north west of San Jose. What should have been a 2 hour trip turned into 3 1/2, what with curvy mountain roads, slow moving traffic (including horse and donkey carts), villages where speed bumps slowed us to 25 kph (about 15 MPH), police stopping cars randomly, one lane bridges that alternated between yielding or not, and some down right crazy drivers cutting corners, driving in the wrong lane, you name it.
La Fortuna is the gateway to Arenal National Park and its volcano. The area is known for it’s hot springs, hiking, river rafting, ATVing and many other outdoor adventure activities. With so many things to do in the area you definitely need more than a two nights stay, which is what we did. We stayed at the Volcano Lodge and Resort, which had several hot pools as well as swimming pools. Not a bad place for the money. Besides my wife getting sick during our stay and one day of heavy rain, the one day of good weather did allow me to visit the Hanging Bridges and see the volcano without clouds.
On Day 6 our next destination was Dominical, a couple of hundred miles south of La Fortuna on the west coast (Pacific Ocean), where we stayed two nights at the Waterfall Villas (Cascadas Farallas). This was another trying drive, with what was supposed to be a 5+ hour drive turning into 7, due in part to the Easter holidays, but also to the terrible road conditions – the new superhighway from San Jose to Manual Antonio National Park thru Jaco and Quipos was nicely paved but the two lanes on each side had a nasty habit of ending as you approached a hill, with no passing lanes – creating lots of opportunities for the locals to show their skills at darting in and out of traffic and causing near fatal accidents. Apparently Costa Rican authorities don’t believe in building bridges with two lanes on both sides of the bridge as every one becomes one lane in each direction.
The Waterfall Villas web site shows beautiful flowing waterfalls running though the property where you can sun bath on the rocks. Because of the dry season the waterfalls were rather small. The villas are best for honeymooners, yoga enthusiasts and vegans, none of which we are. Dominical’s beaches are good for surfing and beach activities. We had a good time on the beaches and the local food was very good.
On day 7 we left for San Jose and our final hotel, the Doubletree Inn. As we had such a tough drive going through Jaco and Quipos from San Jose, we decided to go over the mountains and up the Pan American Highway, via San Isidro. Another mistake. This road was winding, narrow, packed with slow moving cars and trucks, but only took around 3 hours to go 90 miles. On day 8 my wife needed to return home to resume work on Monday, so she departed at 6AM and I headed north to Nicaragua for another 8 days of travel.
So all in all, I accomplished what I set out to do: drive around Costa Rica, see the Caribbean, volcanos/mountains and Pacific coast. Should we return to Costa Rica we will not drive, we will fly to our destinations and probably stay two weeks to really relax and see the sights.
If you are interested traveling to Costa Rica I can help you plan your trip. Give me a call or email me at bill@billmoniztravel.com.